Dry or Dull Skin in Perimenopause? Try a Barrier Repair Routine
Conversation & Community for Peri / Menopause
No one has ever accused me of being trendy — my minimal makeup routine has been the same for the past 10 years, and I can’t seem to ditch my skinny jeans. (My daughter did convince me to buy one pair of flared denim (below). I’m not yet totally convinced that they are flattering. Any suggestions on favorite brands and styles, if you’re petite, are very welcome, but I digress.)
Thoughts on these cropped, flared jeans? I’m not sure about the new straight-leg styles either, but I’m trying!
While I may not be ahead of the curve when it comes to fashion, there’s a skincare trend I’m way ahead of — skin barrier repair. While almost totally absent on skincare packaging 5 years ago, the Google Search term “barrier repair” is predicted to spike by 23% over the next year, according to a recent report from Spate, a trend forecasting agency. When I began skincare formulation school in 2019, I became obsessed with creating products to support barrier function and helping women understand the link between a strong, healthy skin barrier and healthy glowy skin.
What’s your skin’s barrier? And why does it need repairing anyway?
Let’s take a step back and talk biology: The outermost layer of your skin, the stratum corneum, houses something called a moisture barrier. It’s a permeable layer of skin cells, ceramides, cholesterol, and other fatty acids stacked like bricks (skin cells) and mortar (fatty acids) together. Ceramides — the most important ingredient in that mortar — make up about half of your skin’s barrier and act like very smart security guards, only letting in what’s good for the skin while keeping the bad stuff out.
Many things can damage your skin’s barrier: using too many active ingredients in your skincare routine, over-cleansing, wind, sun, and — you guessed it — the fluctuating estrogen levels that come with perimenopause. When your estrogen levels fall, your skin has trouble hanging onto ceramides, which help skin lock in moisture. A damaged barrier may look dry, flaky, dull, or scaly and may feel tight, raw, or even itchy.
My Skin Health Story & Phosis
I noticed a gradual change in my skin in early perimenopause — I’d wake up with skin that was red in areas, tight, dry, or flaky, though not consistently any of those things. I didn’t necessarily want to look 25, but I also wanted to look like the best, most well-rested version of myself with glowing, healthy skin. Looking back, I was using the wrong cleanser, over-exfoliating, and bewildered by serums. It’s no wonder my skin was such a mess.
I walked the aisles of department stores and drugstores, trying to find products specifically designed for women like me with no luck. And as I learned more about skincare ingredients, I started to understand the fragrances and surfactants found in most luxury skincare products were likely making my skin concerns even worse. This was my lightbulb moment and the reason I founded Phosis, plant-based skincare clinically proven to address the skin issues in perimenopause and menopause by supporting barrier function and delivering soothing hydration.
We’re launching with two products in the fall.
Calm, a deeply hydrating and restorative cream packed with ceramides, antioxidants, and nourishing oils to moisturize parched skin
Luminous, a lightweight face oil that boosts radiance, fights dullness, maintains skin microbiota, and protects skin from the environment
I can’t wait to share these solutions with women who need them — and stay tuned, Substack subscribers will get early access to try them first.
5 Ways to Get Your Glow Back
1) Cleanse carefully. I know double-cleansing is trending on TikTok, but this is not a trend worth following if you’re dry in perimenopause. I love an oil-based cleanser that doesn’t start skincare by stripping away ceramides. There are many great ones, but watch this space for a product specifically designed for women in perimenopause.
2) Replenish ceramides. Incorporating a cream packed with ceramides is essential for protecting skin and locking in moisture. Calm, available from Phosis this fall, accomplishes that while also soothing redness and softening the look of fine lines and wrinkles. Use morning and night after you’ve cleansed and applied any serums.
3) Lock-in moisture. I love a face oil on days when my skin needs a little extra brightness and TLC. Packed with nourishing oils like Jojoba, Papaya Seed, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Seed, Sea Buckthorn Fruit, and Rosehip Oil, Luminous protects skin from moisture loss and absorbs quickly into your face or neck.
4) Cycle your actives. Dermatologists, aestheticians, and other skincare gurus agree: While exfoliating acids, retinols, peptides, and brighteners like Vitamin C are essential for any skincare routine, using all of them within the same day or night can harm the barrier, which can make skin look worse, not better. Instead, choose one active per day and night and alternate them. If skin starts to look dry, flaky, or red, skip your serums, treatments, or exfoliators for a night or two and baby skin with a repairing moisturizer or face oil. (If you’re a Vitamin C fan, stay tuned — we’ve got something incredible in-store for late fall.)
5) Add omega-3s. Adding foods rich in Omega-3s is an excellent way to keep skin healthy from the inside out. If you eat fish, cold-water fatty fish are an excellent source (salmon, mackerel, tuna, and sardines), as are certain nuts and seeds (flaxseed, chia seeds, and walnuts).
This Week’s Movement Snack
Sure I like to look glowing and youthful, but another reason I make sure I keep my skin’s barrier strong and functioning optimally is the fact that I love hiking and downhill skiing. Being outside and exposed to elements like sun and wind can really do a number on your face if you don’t. (Raw, windburned cheeks are not the accessory I want to be bringing to a date or a work lunch.)
As a female founder prepping for a product launch, my hobbies have taken a backseat to Zoom meetings with various teams across the globe over the last couple of weeks. If you find that your body aches a bit more on days when you’re sitting more than moving, here’s an upper body movement snack you can do at your desk for strength, length, and pain management. (Next week we’ll focus on hips and legs.)
Cheers to looking and feeling your best,
Susan
Susan Campbell
Founder and CEO, Phosis